normpearii

Honestly, even if you don't overclock, the if your going the i7, get the 4790k instead of 4790. I don't feel like the price difference is worth the difference in stock clock speeds. Considering its the same processor, the K being unlocked and stock clocked to 4.0 GHz instead of locked multiplier and stock of 3.6 GHz: At the Newegg prices of $339.99 for the 4790K and $309.99 for the 4790, rounded to $340 and $310 respectively: the 4790K is ~$85 per GHz, while the 4790 is ~$86.111 per GHz. From my experience on my older PCs, that 0.4 GHz can be the difference between 30+ FPS and laggy 15-20 FPS. Agree with everyone else on the Graphics Card and Power Supply. Also try to get a better cooler, you can get the 212 Evo for I think $36 dollars and $30 after mail-in rebate at a Micro Center or on their website. It won't say it's compatible with 1150 on the box, but i believe the it was the 1155 mounting hardware has the same spacing and works. I've heard stories of the Stock coolers sometimes being so bad the processors hit pretty high temps under load.

Page File is by no means a proper method of checking Memory Usage. Use VAS. For example, I have page file disabled. Only exceptions being when I'm editing graphics, 3D modeling or video editing; I have it set to the same size as my RAM. With reboots in between as are required when changing page file size.

After a quick google search, I believe that is a standalone game. Edit: Was beaten to it :lol:

Try OBS's record feature with Game capture plugin (Free). Or try dxtory (not Free but has demo with watermark to try it). Both are less resource intensive than Fraps and you'll get better frames while recording. Edit: Keep forgetting about Shadow Play being an option as well for Nvidia cards.

Honestly looking at what you have for PC on your profile. I suggest some standalone graphics. The Sandybridge intergrated graphics are pretty extremely weak. See this link where the Intel Intergrated HD 2500 Graphics ends up: http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/gpu You'll see plenty of AMD and Nvidia's cards from 3-4 generations ago in that ranking range, especially the lower tier cards of those generations. As for your CPU, are you looking at just a CPU upgrade or motherboard as well? In case one, without information on your motherboard and power supply we couldn't really make any reasonable suggestions. In both cases, what kind of budget are you looking at? I'd hate to recommend something outside what you could reasonable afford. P.S. (Also confused by what you mean by "(NO SECONDARY)" under harddrives., however its not important, just my curiousity. :ph34r: )

Reset your controls. You must have accidentally set the Z axis to a view axis. Or manually remove the Z axis from controling the view: "SETTINGS"->"CONTROLS"->" CONTROL AXES" Tab-> Scroll down to the bottom of the event list. Select Any of the 3 "View" events that are set and select the "Delete Joystick Assignment" (Bottom Middle Button) or alternatively: Alt+J

Are both monitors the same size and resolution?

I highly recommend ditching Norton for something else. Heck I'd even say Microsoft Security Essentials is better than Norton. Norton produces way too many false positives. On top of its bad habit of deleting files without notifying the user. (I've seen stories of it blocking windows updates before.)

Actually you can. With an Windows XP install I no longer use, I went from a 1 GHz Athlon, to the P4 HT 3.4 , to the Athlon II x3 2.7, to the Core 2 Quad without issues. All you need to do is uninstall every driver so windows is using only default Microsoft drivers before you actually change the hardware out, then install all the new drivers on next boot. As long as you didn't miss a driver, it will boot into windows. (Actually, uninstalling all graphics drivers and software before upgrading cards, even when using the same company or even the same card series, it also a good idea) On topic, Gatwick is pretty hard on FPS, especially with higher end aircraft. Nothing really you can do about it.

As much as I think it is horrible. If emailing Credit Card information wasn't enough of a red flag to realize "Hey, this might be one of those online scams." Then I hate to say it, but said person had it coming to them. The existence of victims is all the more reason that site needs to be taken down ASAP. Said victims should contact their bank and their cards call center to try to cancel those before they get charged for some ridiculous amount.

Looks at bank balance. Sees $75.78 Falls into depression for next 10 days :( Oh well, almost 2 more weeks of manual reading I guess. B) Plus I will probably download faster when everyone isn't trying as well

cockpit, cabin, look awfully similar when your eyes are still adjusting to the light

Considering there is no 2D panels except I believe the MCP, it would be nearly impossible to use 90% of the plane if you did that. Bah, this is why you don't post immediately after waking up.

Try: 1.) Installing FSX (Run as Administrator of course) 2.) Run FSX with no SPs 3.) Fly a plane for a few seconds. Close the game. 4.) Install SP1 (Run as Admin) 5.) Again, Fly a plane for a few seconds. Close the game. 6.) Install Acceleration or SP2, Again as Admin 7.) Fly again. Close the game. 8.) Apply appropriate uiautomationcore.dll 9.) Fly in FSX Again, Spam menus for 10 minutes and try to force a crash. 10.) If Crash, install the other uiautomationcore.dll, if you did not crash, skip to 12. 11.) Repeat 9, if crash, repeat 8 with different or first uiautomationcore.dll, try both dlls difference for you. with both DX9 and DX10 and see if it makes any , if no crash, go to 12. For example on one of my PCs. FSX crashes with both dlls in DX9, but works with the newer one with DX10. 12.) Install correct FSX.cfg settings for your preferences. Especially the memory fix. 13.) Install and test each addon 1 by 1. Remove add ons if they cause crashing. Continue til all wanted, unbugged addons and install. This has never failed me one on reinstalling the game. Crash free FSX is much more enjoyable.